Fruit Acids in UK Skincare

Fruit acids have become a very popular ingridient in almost all skincare products lately. You can find them in creams, tonics, scrubs, and chemical peel solutions. It’s not surprising because they can treat a variety of skin problems: photoagaing, acne, dry skin, psoriasis, actinic keratosis , and melasma. Fruit acids are a group of alpha hydroxy acids that traditionally come from fruit matter. They include glycolic acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid.




Fruit Acids in Your Skincare







The most common used fruit acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. They are contained in almost every cream sold in UK right now. Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane, lactic acid from sour milk, and mandelic acid is found in almonds. Most creams usually contain from 5% to 10% of these acids. When it comes to chemical peels, solutions start from 25% concentration. Glycolic peel can go up to 70% in concentration, while lactic can be as high as 80%. However, it’s worse noting that concentration is not as important, as chemical properties of these acids are very different. Mandelic peel 40% peel is just as potent as a 70% glycolic peel.







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So, how do you use fruit acids? Well, creams can be used daily. But fruit acid peels are usually performed once very 7-10 days. The benefits of continuous AHA use seen in as little as 4-6 weeks, if using the correct formula for your skin type, will result in a decrease of visible fine lines, reduce hyper-pigmentation, promote collagen synthesis for a plumper skin appearance and brighten dull skin. Hypersensitive individuals and those with irritated skin should use alpha hydroxy acids cautiously. Also, people who have undergone recent cosmetic surgeries, patients with open wounds, and those who have used isotretinoin (Acutaine) therapy within the last 6 to 12 months should not be using anything that contains fruit acids.









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How do fruit acids work? They exert a thinning effect on the stratum corneum. Specifically, the acids cause an “ungluing” of cells, causing them to shed instead of maintain their “stickiness.” The thinning effect of the stratum corneum can be noted up to 14 days after treatment discontinuation. Additionally, they stimulate the synthesis of collagen in the dermis. The overall effect is improvement in wrinkles, elasticity, and skin tone. Chemical peels with fruit acids can be used to treat a variety of dermatological conditions, including acne, rosacea, age spots, melasma, scarring, and wrinkles. These peels cause an increase in dermal perfusion, as noted by marked erythema and vasodilation occurring after treatment. It may take as long as 6 months before patients achieve noticeable results with fruit acid peels. Most women usually need 4 to 6 peels over a 4 to 6 month time period. However, the success of these peels is dependent on the severity of their skin conditions.














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